Set where the green Neelum meets the muddy Jhelum, Muzaffarabad is the capital of Azad Jammu and Kashmir and the main gateway to the region. Mountains rise on all sides, rivers run through the valley, and the city blends a busy bazaar life with the calm of the surrounding hills.
For most travelers, Muzaffarabad is the first real stop after Islamabad, a place to rest, eat, stock up and prepare for the journey into Neelum Valley and beyond. It is also a worthwhile destination in its own right, with a historic fort, riverside spots, viewpoints, and easy access to Pir Chinasi.
Muzaffarabad has had its share of hardship, including the devastating 2005 earthquake, yet the city has rebuilt and remains lively and welcoming.